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due to the insane amperage draw I can only run the blower motor at speed II
Take it out and oil the bushings with 3 in 1 oil.

I don't know how you could save a fusible link. Sort of like saving a burned out light bulb...
 
Take it out and oil the bushings with 3 in 1 oil.

I don't know how you could save a fusible link. Sort of like saving a burned out light bulb...
I'll try the above.

Well, it smelled worse than it actually was. I thought the fuse holder had completely melted apart, but that wasn't the case.

ETA: My mistake, I confused an inline fuse holder for a fusible link.
 
Well, not there yet with the HVAC refresh, but I do finally have the system back together, and drew a vacuum this evening, so we'll see if it holds overnight. I found plenty of confusion on how much oil to add to the system. The service manual says 300ml in 83-522, but if you scroll down, all you see are Delco compressors (so close to Denso! but no cigar). I found a couple places indicating around 8oz is the capacity of Denso 10P compressors, so I went with that. I undershot that by about an ounce since I figured there's probably around that much oil still in the compressor. I'm giving PAO a try, for something different. About the only criticism I could find is that it separates easily from R134, but it's recommended as universally compatible - and R12 carries oil better than R134 (obviously R12 works great with mineral oil, which won't circulate with R134).

I managed to replace all the seals in the compressor without any drama. I even managed to pull the shaft seal from the front so I didn't have to worry about mashing the carbon ring. Here's a good run-down, for anyone who's interested:
. What I did instead of pushing from behind was to grind a little slot just below the tip of the jaws of a needle-nose pliers, and with as much of a gorilla grip as I could muster, I managed to pull it out. I tried with the pliers straight up, but it didn't have enough grip to pull the o-ring past the snap ring land. Before I started, I scrubbed and scrubbed the compressor of probably 36 years and 242,000 miles of grime. That's something I strongly recommend to anyone considering this; nothing worse than crud falling into your (hopefully) pristine innards. The other recommendation is to get everything lined up on a clean workbench so you can step right through the process, limiting the exposure to dust or "oppsies!"

The seal kit comes with some o-rings, crush washers for the bolts, carbon seal, and metal ring that rides on (I think in the video he calls it an extractor ring). Well, it wasn't clear which side was supposed to go against the carbon, and one side had a nick on it, while the original extractor ring looked fine. I guess I have more faith in the original (Denso probably made it to higher tolerances than Santech's offshore bit) even with a new carbon ring, so I cleaned it up and reused it. Time will tell, I guess. Now I just hope my vacuum pump holds out. I turned it on, watched it run a bit, and then went inside for supper to let it do its thing (something I've done before, I think even overnight to draw down as much moisture as possible). When I went back out, it had shut itself off - apparently hit a thermal limited. I turned if off and back on, and it kicked on again. It was at most 80 out in the shop. Well, if it holds a good vacuum overnight, I'll probably just run it another hour and then charge. Still a lot left to do: I pulled the radiator and decided to drain as much coolant as possible and refill, then a few other things under the hood while I'm at it, and finally, all the interior pieces from tearing in for the vacuum pods, expansion valve, and so on. It's a lot of work, but if it were easy, everyone would be doing it!
 
Looking good so far: this morning the needle was still hanging at -27PSI. The number itself doesn't mean much; you'd need a ($150+) micron gauge to have any idea how much of a vacuum you've actually got. That said, you can tell if you're getting near the limits of your vacuum pump if you cap the manifold low side outlet (where you'd normally attach the hose to the suction line) and run your vacuum pump for a minute or so. Tap the gauge and make a note of it. I caught a problem immediately: I was only pulling maybe half of what I expected to see - turns out the o-ring had fallen out of the cap for the other port on the pump... Anyway, a good system should pull down to within a point or two of the reference number within a half hour. No guarantees though: the "how much vacuum should it hold for how long" rabbit hole leads me to anecdotes where a system holds a vacuum perfectly but leaks under pressure... But I'm betting you'll catch most leaks this way; it's at least a sanity check in case you left something loose or forgot to replace an o-ring somewhere. Oh, and probably a good idea to replace the schrader valve cores, or adapter fittings for R134 - those can be a liability, especially if they're from a cheap conversion kit.
 
Darn, broke one of the vacuum pods while replacing the diaphragms. Anyone have a spare pink/black dual unit for a 126?
Found more rust under the trunk seal, trunk lock cover and under the right tail light at the seam. So get to reshoot the whole back panel and feather at the curve. The 20 year old paint job was a little greyer than the Lapis Blue I have, so a little tweaking is necessary to match. At least the weather is cooperating with high 70s and low 80s day and mid sixties night temps.
 
Darn, broke one of the vacuum pods while replacing the diaphragms. Anyone have a spare pink/black dual unit for a 126?
Found more rust under the trunk seal, trunk lock cover and under the right tail light at the seam. So get to reshoot the whole back panel and feather at the curve. The 20 year old paint job was a little greyer than the Lapis Blue I have, so a little tweaking is necessary to match. At least the weather is cooperating with high 70s and low 80s day and mid sixties night temps.
a photo of what you have can be helpful....
RV
 
I finally have the radio electrics wired up. The speakers are next, then the centre console antenna switch mod.

It has been slow going, since I prefer to work as neatly as possible and with the existing systems as much as possible. Here you can see the new radio wiring married to the existing radio plug.

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And the antenna control wire follows the radio harness up to the junction, from where it will be routed to the centre console for the antenna switch. I cannot use the same illumination wire for the antenna switch, since the 3 wires in the radio plug are already crowded, so I will have to look for another point, either on one of the existing console switches or on another point on the instrument cluster illumination line.
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I have also re-routed the brake servo vacuum line, only to discover its current location may not be ideal, as it interferes with the front shock mount. But I will address that soon.

Unfortunately, with Smokey suddenly out of commission, this car has to get road-ready sooner rather than later. I still have the W202, but that car is not without problems either - especially her appetite for headlight bulbs...
 
So, one step forward, two steps back, three steps sideways...

I have to install an audio amplifier into my W126. Good thing the car is already open. The front speakers have an impedance of ±2 ohm each, while the rear speakers read more like 6 ohm. I managed to purchase a Pioneer amp which also accepts speaker-level inputs, leaving the radio RCA ports open for bass drivers, should the need arise. This does mean that I will have to rewire the speakers anyways - it's no wonder that the radio the car had in when I bought her ended up destroyed.

The antenna cable, which had been cut, has now been replaced by a W202 unit. The connection to the antenna mast is the same, and there is plenty of length. However, the radio-side connector looks different; fortunately, my radio came with an adaptor for just such a situation, so my car is both future-proof and backwards compatible.

I unfortunately managed to accidentally open an obscure connector on the side of the HVAC unit, with a grey wire and a black wire. My ETM seems to only have the ACC system wiring, not the standard HVAC system. I would appreciate any information.

EDIT:

It is the thermocouple for the cabin heater, 1268301172. I believe I have it wired correctly. 50/50 chance, I guess.
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I got back from a big road trip out west with my W126. I drove 6,444 miles with an average fuel economy of 20.3 mpg. Strangest thing was that I would get 22 to 23 mpg while driving around the mountains in Idaho and BC, however, on the drive home across the plains I would average 19 to 20 mpg. Maybe the car is more efficient at less than highway speeds regardless of the terrain..?

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Most forest roads don't actually need 4x4 and the W126 is taller than most modern sedans. My rear did sag a bit since my trunk was full of stuff. I did drag my tailpipe on some rocks. I might just put in the tallest spring spacers from Mercedes to raise the car.

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An issue I had was that the rear exhaust hangers broke on me. Yes, they were cracked before I left, but they were only 2 years old so I thought they'd be fine. I had to get some new ones from an MB dealer in Spokane Another issue I had was that my pull handle on the door got loose so I had to tighten it back down. I also made a friend in ID so I could use his garage to change my oil. A lot better than the AutoZone parking lot! I brought a lot of tools with me in the trunk, but I barely used any.

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The Mercedes of zero weight.
I've never experienced more rock chips and bug splatters than with this car. My windshield has all sorts of little chips and I had to clean off all the dead bugs at every gas station.
 
I got back from a big road trip out west with my W126. I drove 6,444 miles with an average fuel economy of 20.3 mpg. Strangest thing was that I would get 22 to 23 mpg while driving around the mountains in Idaho and BC, however, on the drive home across the plains I would average 19 to 20 mpg. Maybe the car is more efficient at less than highway speeds regardless of the terrain..?

Most forest roads don't actually need 4x4 and the W126 is taller than most modern sedans. My rear did sag a bit since my trunk was full of stuff. I did drag my tailpipe on some rocks. I might just put in the tallest spring spacers from Mercedes to raise the car.


An issue I had was that the rear exhaust hangers broke on me. Yes, they were cracked before I left, but they were only 2 years old so I thought they'd be fine. I had to get some new ones from an MB dealer in Spokane Another issue I had was that my pull handle on the door got loose so I had to tighten it back down. I also made a friend in ID so I could use his garage to change my oil. A lot better than the AutoZone parking lot! I brought a lot of tools with me in the trunk, but I barely used any.

View attachment 2941380
The Mercedes of zero weight.
I've never experienced more rock chips and bug splatters than with this car. My windshield has all sorts of little chips and I had to clean off all the dead bugs at every gas station.
Oh my gosh. I LOVE IT.

I did a recent 6,000-mile trip, too. But in my W124. If you made it to the San Francisco area, I'm not going to be happy you didn't speak up!

Congrats on what sounds like a fantastic trip. And no better car to take it in.
 
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So, some things are happening, which I think will slow the project down but greatly benefit it in the end.

I need to make an air scoop for the air filter box, which is now sitting on the RHS of the car due to the inlet runner over the OM606. I therefore acquired the RHS air scoop from a V8 model to use as reference. I had it 3D-scanned and cleaned up, so now I can start extracting the features I need to make my bespoke design for 3D printing additive manufacturing.

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I am also working on a drop-in PWM dimmer to allow dimming of LED's and incandescent bulbs. Early days on that one.

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Instrument cluster and console lights.
 
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That's the most adorable driveshaft I've ever seen.
Thanks Mike!

'Never seen' actually! :)

I wiped it down prior to reinstallation,.. and did not take photo, can one believe?

The shaft is only a couple feet long and fits over the two rubber buffers as shown...
As the clutch mechanism locates on the transaxle at the back, whenever the motor is running, the d/shaft spins.

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I've had this little tractor for roughly 20 years....
Post repair report... its never been as super smooth/quiet as it is at present.

I now wish I had a lawn to mow!
At our current address here, there is a mowing service taking care of all things lawn-wise...

M
 
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