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[edit] This was my first post, and I had to edit, to apologize for somehow missing 90% of the posts. Chalk it up to NEWBIE and just being excited to have possibly finding a solution to extending this MOD to include bluetooth play back ability. I'll leave my original text below, but I see now I have to go back through to see how to approach my situation. [end edit]

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Wondering how you think this would work with the new bluetooth modules that have RCA (L/R) output? They're cheap and you can find them even at Target.

Basically, the bluetooth module replaces need for the wired iPod cable connection. You think you would still need the fake cassette? I need to do this to my wife's 98 4matic wagon and promised her MONTHS ago. :)

By the way her wagon has a CD changer, otherwise I would have thought about stealing that input, and even though I've read about AUX inputs being in the glove box - I'm sure a 98 e320 is too old?

Appreciate any feedback so I can get this done!

- - - - - - -

[edit] Additionally, to provide power (rechargable) to the bluetooth module, I just figured I would hide a USB cigarette lighter adapter behind everything, and plug a USB power cable to the module. The module has L/R input to receive and then out via bluetooth to iPhone or the newer iPods with bluetooth.

THANKS for input /advice. Be gentle. ;-) [end edit]
 
[edit]...By the way her wagon has a CD changer, otherwise I would have thought about stealing that input, and even though I've read about AUX inputs being in the glove box - I'm sure a 98 e320 is too old?...
If I remember correctly, the only W210 with the AUX input in the glove box are those with the COMAND/NAV system option.
 
I did this mod the other day with little trouble, but when I plugged in the aux cable into a device, there is some static when the phone/tablet volume was low or if the song was at a quiet part. It did not matter what volume the radio was set to, only what volume the phone/tablet was or if it was a quiet part of the song. As soon as the volume was maxxed out or as soon as the song got louder, the static would go away.

Any ideas? Otherwise it works great.
 
Hey MS, I have the same problem. I attribute it to a bad ground connection, but haven't been able to take the radio out again to look.

If anyone has other ideas, I'd love to hear them. Thanks!


Cheers! -- Greg
'00 E 320
'01 SLK 320 Sport 6-speed
 
gsmcintyre, did your audio cable have a braided ground shield surrounding two wires or did it just have 2 wires for L, R, and ground? Mine had three wires and was curious if the cheap cable was an issue.
 
Hi, I was wondering if someone here could help me. I am trying to do this mod but I realized the mistake the design of the cassette player when using cassette adapters for music. Unfortunately, my adapter got stuck in the player and no matter how hard I pulled or tugged, would not come out. I opened up the player to open the mechanism holding the cassette but I am wondering if it is possible to remove this adapter somehow.

Sorry for the long post.

Edit: Would it be possible for this mod to still work even if I have a tape stuck error? Maybe if I cut off the tape motor?
 
HI all,
I would like to do the mod, but I have Alpine version (CM2299) and I cannot find a picture of where to solder the R and L channels.
Anybody can point me in the right direction? Thanks
 
Bought a dension d2b lite version. and that solved all my problems. Ok. it's costy, but worths it.
It even gives u aux ports to be able to use with a bluetooth adapter
 
I think the background hiss is from the tape heads. I am not sure that it can be eliminated very easily. I do not think that its a screening or a grounding issue. The mod is cheap and worthwhile. The Cassette function is lost unless a DPDT switch is used to bypass the mod. I think the best way get the "good quality sound" is to increase the volume on the IPOD to max and hope that the better signal will dominate the hiss. ( I have an Alpine CM1910 radio ).
If someone has a better suggestion please share.
I think the Denison module is rather expensive for my 12 year old car.
 
jenks2010,

Basically we supply the audio signals from the ipod ( left and Right channel ) to the place where the cassette player applies them on the circuit board. Actually the traces from the cassette audio portion are cut to stop any input. Since the cassette logic looks for a real cassette to be present before it will operate, an empty cassette is used to "fool the system" into thinking that the audio is coming from the cassette player, but in fact comes from the ipod. The quality is not perfect as any signals picked up by the leads connected to the ipod pickup are presented to the audio input as well, but the quality is still very good.
The cassette motor operates all the time, so some very faded noise is added from there as well. Its also possible that some noise is picked up from the motor circuit but there does not seem a good way to use the cassette input without the motors running and a cassette being present and continue to keep the steering wheel control volume etc.

Its also a very low cost mod compared to other systems that are available. The sound quality is not the best and the volume varies between different songs. If one uses the cigarette lighter socket for power to a BlueTooth adapter to feed the audio there is a large hum into the system. However, it can play ipod contents through the speakers.

This is my understanding, but please feel free to add clarity, corrections, or more detail as appropriate.
( BTW I have an Alpine CM1910 unit)
 
This is good info. I plan on Doing this to my new to me 2000 e430 this weekend. I've read this thread and other threads on the subject all over the Internet. I'm still fuzzy on a few things, and I'm hoping for some clarification from the MB wizards assembled here. I have all the tools, and I'm an experienced solderer (is that a word?). Some write ups mention cutting some traces, some mention a gutted cassette, some mention getting an error when using a gutted cassette. So, I guess my question is this: Can you cut some traces, disable the cassette motors, and just solder an input in place of the cassette system entirely? I have no desire to ever play a cassette again, all my music is on my phone, or is streamed from Pandora etc. I don't mind doing the gutted cassette thing, but if I'll just end out yanking the head unit again in the future to deal with stuck cassette error messages, I'd just as soon eliminate that the first time.

What I'd _really_ like to do is install a USB port that connected to the input on the board, and also gets 5v power from somewhere so I can just plug my phone in once and it's charging and supplying music. If that's been done, I'd love to see it, if not, I'll have to try to,work it out on my own. It seems very possible.
 
I did this. Cut the traces and supplied a gutted cassette. Works fine except 2 things: I have to turn the volume on the phone all the way up, and if i charge it at the sane time i get interference. I plan to try using a better quality, shielded cable, when I get to it. The one I used was a cheapie. This might help both these issues.
If you read back on the thread, someone got their iphone to connect and charge with the standard hone cable (at the time)
I have not heard of anyone using another input. Seems like it could be possible to use the one that would come from the CD player in the back. However, keeping that input intact seems like a good idea, since some people still use CD's.
 
I have something screwed up in a way I'm not even sure how it's possible. Soldered exactly how it is in the pictures. Works fine, except I have a strange static noise that comes and goes in a non random interval. Doesn't matter if a tape is in or not, or if the music is playing or not. If the phone is plugged into the stereo, the static fades in and out.

AND, the head unit no longer lights up (and neither does the ashtray) and possibly strangest of all, the head unit is now powered even with the key off, and removed. The head unit has constant power. How on earth could I have accomplished that?
 
Ok, I got my AUX mod done and it's working very well. This thread was very helpful, and I figured I'd add a few of my thoughts in the hopes that more input will ensure this thread continues to help people like it helped me.

First, removing the head unit can be harder than it seems like it should be. You need to get or make the right shaped tool to really get the head unit to break free. Mine was very stubborn and wanted to stay stuck even after I disengaged the clips. I didn't want to yank on the front too hard and break something, so I removed the ashtray and the storage bin above the ashtray. Then I could reach behind the stereo and push it out from behind rather than pulling it out. This was a huge help, and only took my 5 extra minutes. I strongly suggest it.

Second, this is a job where you want to have the right tools and skills. The soldering is fine and small. This isn't a job for a first timer with dads old Weller soldering gun. You want a decent variable temp iron, and preferably some magnification. If you over heat the board, you could brick the head unit. If you don't have soldering experience, consider seeking out a friend who knows how that can help.

Third, the type of cable you solder on matters. The first one I tried had 2 insulated wires and one bare ground. I got horrible loud static noise that would fade in and out. I tried a different cable, it had 3 separate insulated wires, and it worked great.

Fourth, on page 10 of the thread someone mentions two traces on the board to cut to avoid feedback loop when charging your phone while listening to music. I cut those traces, but still get feed back if I plug my phone into charge. I need to figure that out and I'll post up if I figure out how to fix it.

That's all I have for now. It was a very worthwhile mod and I'm glad I did it. Thanks to all those who were kind enough to figure out how to do this and share the information.
 
I just did this on our '99 CLK430 which has the Alpine CM2299. The board and set-up are different than in the original post. But I found the 20-pin connector that goes from the cassette to the main board. On the back of that, I soldered the two new wires to the contacts labeled L and R. I then snapped off the corresponding pins (the 4 and 5th from one end) so that the cassette output (good or bad) could never make it to the board. I wound up attaching the bare ground under a screw that attaches the big metal (sink? whatever that is) to the back of the radio. A totally gutted cassette gave an error message, so I am using a regular cassette, with tape, and everything works fine.

Soldering tip: this was my first ever soldering job. I tried a 30-watt pencil solderer. Felt it was too weak. Bought a 60-watt one. I first "tinned" the two wires (meaning twisted them, heated them and put a little solder on), then put some solder of the tip of the solder gun. Then, I carefully placed the tinned wire on the contact points -- sort of balanced there -- then with a magnifying glass in one hand and the gun in the other, touched the combined items (wire and contact) until a little puff emerged and something seemed to change. They bonded, maybe only barely, but it works. The point being, I didn't attempt to add solder as I was soldering -- not enough hands and probably not enough precision.
 
Did the mods on BE3309

I have an Alpine CM2299 HU in my 99 SL. Didn't want to fry it so bought a BE3309 on eBay for $40 and experimented with this one. The mod is better documented for this model anyway...

It works well though I had to change the original cable I used, shielding wasn't great... I have a gutted tape in it.
 
Sorry, my wife took the good camera with her out of town, hence this is why i had time to figure this out without interuption. By the way I have added an update to my mod above.

I had an Ipod interface kit i bought for my 1998 wagon for $11usd on ebay but discovered a CD changer is required for it to work.

Soundgate MBPDAUX1 iPod Aux Input Mercedes Benz 94-98
Soundgate MBPDAUX1 iPod Aux Input Mercedes Benz 94-98 | eBay

So i took the Auxillary plug I just added and plugged it into (audio out plug) on the black box with Ipod connector end and then connected the yellow wire to 12v+ ignition on and black to ground. Very Very surprisingly it actually charges my Iphone 3gs while it plays!!! I just threw away benz harnes adaptor and the big box with the AV cables coming out of it.

This kit might be a very good option if you have a CD changer on 94 -98 model!

In the end, I routed the Ipod cable connector thru center console into the armrest and can pull the plug out 2 1/2 feet so I can rest phone by gear shifter. It's very cool, i can just shake the Iphone to change songs.

On your other questsion, yes it works perfectly with blank tape and the sound is cystal clear digital sound without any wires visible and volume can be steering wheel adjusted. Plus the tape adaptor may not work because LCD pannel must be closed to play. On my 1998 wagon pryed the cover off top and the solder points were clearly marked "L" left and "R" right on the top of tape unit thus it was very easy to figure out compared to the new one (did not even have to remove a screw on the 1998 unit). I made an empty cassette because my daughter kept hitting the eject button causing the tape tray to lift which made it nolonger play. Now i just keep a blank tape in it to fool it. I guess this is why its called a tape hack.

By the way, title should read 1999-2002, sorry my mistake.
Beware - "1999-2002" is NOT correct. I dismantled my 1999 230 SLK radio and discovered a different circuit board.
 
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