The codes don't explain lack of power.
The SOV and fuel temp sensor are one unit, that is attached to injection pump with 2 screws and has 3 wires plug. Most of the time the trouble is bad connection. I have P0180 coming every other year and cleaning the plug with contact cleaner keeps it quiet for another year.

 

Thank you Kajtek1,

I will clean the conector and go from there.

Mike

 

I have a 4 wire plug going to a solenoid near the front of the IP that is accessible w/out removing the plenum/intake, it has fuel lines attached, am I looking at the correct part? I unplugged it, the connections "look" good but I will pick up some cleaner and clean it well (unplugging and reconnecting did not change anything)

Mike

 

There is only one electrical connector on injection pump. It is 4 wire plug, but I remember only 3 wires. Not that it is important. Pulling out washer reservoir makes for easy access.
The SOV run slightly over $100 so they are not extremely expensive to replace. Don't forget new oring.
Did you clear the codes with a scanner?

 

Thank you that clears it up (I am looking at the right part), thanks for the pointer on removing the washer reservoir. I did clear codes, but have not driven the car, nothing I have done so far has fixed the delayed shut down. Sounds like I need a new SOV and o ring.

Mike

 

Sounds like I need a new SOV and o ring.

Mike

At this point it might be logic conclusion, but I still would drive the car before dropping money in it. Still poor performance is unexplained. Not likely SOV would cost it.

 

I agree, I don't think the SOV problem and the power issue are related. I still have not had time to drive it but will take it to work one day this week. I have new fuel filters to install and will see if that helps, and order a SOV if I am unable to get it to function properly.

Thanks again,

Mike

 

Lack of power on these cars can always be due to air restrictions caused by gunked up cross-over and exhaust manifold due to EGR recirculating exhaust fumes. Usually you will see a code pop up but not always before noticing lack of performance. You can either disconnect the cross over pipe or the air intake pipes and have a look in side. If it is ooey goey (technical term) that would explain poor performance and a dip in a parts cleaner (recommended) or half a day scrubbing out the diesel greasy mess should due. If cross over pipe is restricted probably worth taking a look at your exhaust manifold as well. Unfortunately a classic scenario with the e300 diesels.

 

I had to remove the cross over pipe and the intake manifold on my 1996 E300 Diesel to replace the engine wire harness and both were caked up with soot and grease. In fact the crank case vent holes were totally plugged and the manifold had an inch of build up in places. After a good cleaning it runs much better. If you remove the manifold you should also check the EGR valve and tube for build up.

 

I replaced all glow plugs several months ago, and at the time cleaned the intake manifold, it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be.

Mike

 

Fixed it!!

I went ahead and ordered the SOV, it came today and I installed it. I cleared the codes started it and it now shuts down as it should. I took it for a ride and all the power is back also. I wonder if the codes caused it to go into limp mode? I drove the car before replacing the SOV and it had no power, turbo did not seem to kick in, clearing the codes at that time did not change things (codes reappeared).

Mike

 

MB is not giving the owners information how the car really works, so we might never know what is happening when. I experienced that minor pedal sensor error, or EGR error will put the engine into what I call safe mode. The engine will have about 80% of its performance allowing almost normal driving, but will let the driver know there is something going on. That will reset at restart if the problem is no longer present.
Coming to SOV there are no other sensors on the injection pump, so computer had no way of knowing the SOV is malfunctioning. My guess is that the old SOV was sticking. It would close with the delay and very likely it didn't fully open.
Than the important thing is that the car works now.
Enjoy the drive.

 

Kajtek1, You're sure the SOV and Fuel Temp. Sensor are one unit?
Because I remember the hose (the longest one) goes into a part and that is the temperature sensor?

 

I think you are mistaking fuel heater on the top of the engine? This is strictly mechanical.

 

My wife mentioned our/her car doesn't have the kick it used to, and there is a delay when it is turned off. I checked/erased the codes (P0180 fuel temp. sensor A circuit malfunction, P0215 Engine shutoff solenoid malfunction) I started it and shut it down and there is a delay after turning the key to the off position. Thought I would ask here before replacing parts, anyone have experience with either solenoid (location, and if they could cause the power loss?).

Thanks,

Mike

The biggest issue today is that folks just will not accept the word SYSTEM. They look at one part and then the should would starts and confuses the planet.

The fuel injection system on your and my car work with and talk to various other components including itself to met the design and emission specs. REMEMBER THAT

Now you say you cleared the OBD codes. FYI The injection system continuously monitors the voltage of the shut off valve and the fuel temp sensor, however with the temp sensor as the car heats up say from 20C to 50C the voltage goes from 3.9 to 2.6 REMEMBER THAT

YES repeat YES both components have influence over the so called "pep of the car" because their data also talks to the engine management system.

Remember the key word is continuously. If after doing what ever you plan to do with the four pin connector and by the way there are four and they are all used, the code returns. You then have to determine if the following components are shorted----the IFI module, the cables and connectors or the fuel temp/fuel sov.

Regrettably the only way WIS suggests to test the IFI module is to start the car and voltage test certain pins on the IFI module thru the 38 pin connector I know of no tester except STAR that will give you the voltage per pin.

To check the SOV, ignition OFF pull the plug and test the net resistance of pins 2 and 3. The SOV is good if the reading is between 7.6 and 8.6 ohms

To check the fuel temp sensor, ignition OFF test the net resistance of pins 1 and 4. If the car is cold the value should be 2500 ohms. If hot the value should be 830 ohms.

The cable you can continuinity check. Good luck