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Discussion starter · #21 ·
sounds good, PlaneCrazy. just ordered the 126 gauge and i will be playing around with it. thanks all for your help!

PS - how crazy would it be to use one of the matching gauge movements in that extra bottom position to indicate turbo boost?
 
how crazy would it be to use one of the matching gauge movements in that extra bottom position to indicate turbo boost?
It would be pretty crazy. What would you use for a sender and then how would you match that up to a movement that would read within the scale you would need? The vacuum gauge you would be replacing is mechanical. It might be theoretically possible to remove the movement from a stand alone boost gauge and somehow mount that in the space available. I'd like to see it, but it would be quite difficult I would imagine.

Given enough time and money, almost anything is possible.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
still dreaming... i wouldn't want to do it with anything but one of the stock movements. probably this would involve purchasing an electronic (maybe digital readout) boost gauge and adapting its signal to the one expected by the stock movements. it might not even be hard... but probably a few tiny things would go wrong :)
 
Perhaps there's confusion with the electric speedo?

It could also be a W126 thing - those SDs are cutting edge!
I have a 1985 300D Turbo Diesel with instrument issues. Per an earlier post, the Temp and Fuel gauge needles flicker in exact unison, from mildly to wildly, eventually maxing and sticking until I either turn off the key, or whack the top of the cluster housing. The Oil Pressure gauge needle remains steady, showing a bit below 2 at idle and 3 above idle, but, I'm told, is showing signs of leakage where the line connects on the back. (I don't know what type of connection it has, whether screw on or friction based. Would it be best to replace the oil line as well as the gauge?) The Seat Belt warning light remains on, even if there is no one in the passenger seat, but dims and flickers at the same frequency as the gauges, periodically. The Tachometer eventually fluctuates about 5 hundred rpms, at around 3,000. There is a faint clicking sound, apparently in the cluster, at the same frequency as the gauges. The Cluster has been pulled four or five times in the last six weeks, to replace the "ignition" switch and lock, separately, to check the ground and to clean and lube the speedometer cable.

Is the speedometer electric or mechanical? What relationship might there be between the clicking sound and the simultaneous sound and movement of the needles, if the cluster/gauges seem to be properly grounded?
 
I have a 1985 300D Turbo Diesel with instrument issues. Per an earlier post, the Temp and Fuel gauge needles flicker in exact unison, from mildly to wildly, eventually maxing and sticking until I either turn off the key, or whack the top of the cluster housing. The Oil Pressure gauge needle remains steady, showing a bit below 2 at idle and 3 above idle, but, I'm told, is showing signs of leakage where the line connects on the back. (I don't know what type of connection it has, whether screw on or friction based. Would it be best to replace the oil line as well as the gauge?) The Seat Belt warning light remains on, even if there is no one in the passenger seat, but dims and flickers at the same frequency as the gauges, periodically. The Tachometer eventually fluctuates about 5 hundred rpms, at around 3,000. There is a faint clicking sound, apparently in the cluster, at the same frequency as the gauges. The Cluster has been pulled four or five times in the last six weeks, to replace the "ignition" switch and lock, separately, to check the ground and to clean and lube the speedometer cable.

Is the speedometer electric or mechanical? What relationship might there be between the clicking sound and the simultaneous sound and movement of the needles, if the cluster/gauges seem to be properly grounded?
Had the exact same symptoms and it turned out to be ground. Just run an additional ground connection from the gauge cluster to the chassis. Drove me crazy, because the first time I tried I didn't get a good ground. Later when I tried again it solved the problem.

Here's a video of what I was seeing...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BEDhCaFZkoM
 
85 300D Instrument Cluster issues

Thanks, guys. I'll try the extra ground. The needles don't move as in the video, in response to operation of various switches, but flutter very rapidly and in exact unison with each other and with the clicking sound, but that's a reasonable first attempt.

As to the slight seepage at the oil pressure gauge, could the ruptured diaphragm in the vacuum pump have caused it and now that the diaphragm has been replaced, might it stop?

There's a difference between stupidity and ignorance. One can be corrected. I'm trying.
 
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