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mach4

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380SL diesel
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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm having some real problems troubleshooting my jumpy gauges. The fuel, temp, pressure and sometimes tach jump any time a load that affects something with the cluster is applied - turn signals, hi and low beams, park lights and hazards. The amount of deflection seems proportional to the load.

Here's a video I uploaded to YouTube documenting what's happening.


Cluster Troubleshooting - YouTube

In searching the forums, this appears to not be all that uncommon and the solutions all seem to involve grounds. The solutions others have found that I've tried include -

  1. Add a ground to the cluster - made no discernible difference
  2. Check the engine-chassis ground - looks good and for testing I added a jumper cable between the engine and chassis. No discernible difference
  3. Replace burned out bulbs - all bulbs check good
  4. Clean grounds on cluster - done, with no discernible difference
  5. Look for shorts on PCB - board looks really clean - touched up ground solder joints just to make sure
  6. Check fuses - all fuses check good

So I'm about out of ideas. Have I missed anything?

Some additional information about the car. It is a 1985 380SL. I got the car with a blown engine, so I have no idea what may have worked and what might not have worked before I got it. I've replaced the engine with an OM617 and the only thing that affected the cluster was I replaced the SL tach module with a 300D tach module (signal/ground and 3 screws) BTW no difference in the symptoms with the tach disconnected... or speedometer, for that matter. Temp sender, pressure sender and fuel sender are all original SL components.

When running, fuel, temp and pressure all indicate proper/expected values except when lights, turn signals or flashers are enabled.
 

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I think your oil-guage is the root of the problem, it should not register key on engine off. It is grounding out and backfeeding the other guages.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
I think your oil-guage is the root of the problem, it should not register key on engine off. It is grounding out and backfeeding the other guages.
That sounds entirely plausible. The problem is that the wiring diagram I have from (http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/11883/PROGRAM/ETM/83etm.pdf) doesn't show the oil pressure gauge wiring. It appears that what I need is on "the next page" which doesn't exist. Of course it's got everything but the speedo, oil pressure and clock.

Can I test the theory by just disconnecting the wire from the sender, or do I need to something more drastic, like pull the gauge? Does anyone have an image of the next page showing the oil pressure wiring handy?
 

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Discussion starter · #8 ·
I think your oil-guage is the root of the problem, it should not register key on engine off. It is grounding out and backfeeding the other guages.
Based on the feedback, I focused in on the oil pressure gauge for my troubleshooting. First, I removed the wire from the sender and there was no change (I wasn't expecting any based on the way the gauge works).

Next step was to remove the oil pressure gauge from the cluster. The video below shows the results of testing in that configuration.



Cluster Troubleshooting Part 2 - YouTube

Earlier I stuck a cluster from a SD (manual oil pressure gauge) in the car and got essentially the same results. The readings were totally off but the needle fluctuations were essentially the same.

Does it seem reasonable that it is something external to the cluster as the source of the problem, based on the new data?

By testing in this configuration it would appear that I've effectively ruled out speedometer, dimmer, oil pressure, clock and tach as sources of the problem. Is that a safe assumption?
 

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Discussion starter · #10 ·
Problem Solved

I still think it's a grounding issue.
You are right!

I used a different grounding point and took care to make it as good as possible and it worked. Gauges are solid and unaffected lights, turn signals, hazards etc. Could have saved myself a bunch of work, but learned a bunch in the process.

Thanks
 
Problem Solved



You are right!

I used a different grounding point and took care to make it as good as possible and it worked. Gauges are solid and unaffected lights, turn signals, hazards etc. Could have saved myself a bunch of work, but learned a bunch in the process.

Thanks
Hi, what did you end up grounding? I have temp fuel and oil pressure jumping untill car runs for a whilduring these episodes the turn signals and wipers are not working.
Thoughts?
 
I had a problem with jumping gauges, especially the tach. On a whim I took out the aftermarket ignition module and replaced it with a factory Bosch unit. Gauges are now rock steady. Just a thought.
 
I will say I had the jumping gauges oil, speedometer, tach, etc. and installing a ground wire fixed the issue.
 
I had a problem with jumping gauges, especially the tach. On a whim I took out the aftermarket ignition module and replaced it with a factory Bosch unit. Gauges are now rock steady. Just a thought.
I had a problem with jumping gauges, especially the tach. On a whim I took out the aftermarket ignition module and replaced it with a factory Bosch unit. Gauges are now rock steady. Just a thought.
I had a problem with jumping gauges, especially the tach. On a whim I took out the aftermarket ignition module and replaced it with a factory Bosch unit. Gauges are now rock steady. Just a thought.
I was going to add that as a potential. I have heard those ignition modules and affect quite a few things.
Thanks
 
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