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Hi,

last night I replaced the evaporator. Well, let me tell you this, getting this box apart is "interesting" and inconsistent with the instructions in the WIS.

I did avoid to unclip all the vacuum lines as they have a tendency to break, so I put the top of the box aside, cleaned out the complete interiour very carefully and installed the new Behr evaporator. I took extra care to replace all foam which had been gone bad over time.

Picked up all the missing parts (like new heat exchanges as a preventive maintenace item) at the dealer and I hope to get the whole thing back into the car tomorrow.

I'll run the complete system before putting the dashboard back in to make sure all works and nothing leaks.

What an adventure !
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
wow!!! :thumbsup: wish you luck!!! can you help me with a part # for evaporator and heater core! And also i want to know-the new evaporator has the same quality as old one or its a updated one and will lust for 20 years?
 
I need to look up the numbers. The new evaporator was manufactured in 2011 and I think confirms that the root cause of the problem is the protective coat which is applied to the new one and does not exist on the old defective one. I've taken photos and will post them.

I have put the entire box together. Replacing the heater core is a piece of cake, replacing the evaporator is more involved. Cleaning up the entire housing of the leaked dye and A/C dye took a fair amount of time.

I let you know how it goes. It's a good idea to get the original foam between the heat exchanger and the firewall although is's a bit expensive for a piece of foam
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
I need to look up the numbers.
ok, thanks!!!

Well, here is a few more pics. from what i did today and tomorrow im going to separate a magic black box apart, so wish me luck people!!!:D
 

Attachments

The evaporator I used : 8FV 351 210-711 Original Behr



Here you can see the coating on the new part



something which wasn't on the old unit



The price was 169 Euro from Germany. I can highly recommend the part-source I have there.

In the mean-time I also replaced the infamous T connector at the firewall (I won't forget this experience)

I've put the car partly back together and checked if the cooling system is not leaking, it seems to be ok



I also evacuated the A/C systems as I need to fix my compressor and wanted to remove moisture. It holds vacuum which is at least an indication that there isn't a major lean

My biggest problem is - you won't believe it - weather : I took the day off to get at least everything back together in the engine bay (wiper assy etc) and now it rains and even hail. As I'm doing the work outside, I spend more time putting a cover on the car when rain shows up the actually working on it.

To be fair, I probably could be done by now, but I've been re-doing all the wiring harnesses inside the cockpit where the tape has come loose over time, labeling connectors for future reference etc

Not a remote signs of isolation issues BTW. I've also modified the Bose sound system a bit (added veru high qual tweeters into the dash) and I'm integrating a Becker Traffic Pro High Speed Radio/Navigation system. I had some issues to find a good place for the GPC antenna, it's now finally tucked away neatly on top of the air box. I hope it will never, ever fail :)

Oh, and the weatherforecast for today "was partly cloudy" :surrender:
 
Congratulations on all the work so far. With the dash out and wires and vacuum lines everywhere, it's hard to recognize in the pictures just what this area is...like a neighborhood that was hit badly by a tornado.

In mid-80's I had a made-for-Europe 1973 220D, with no A/C, and no A/C-sized tunnel housing cover/console (flatter). I happened to find a '71 220D for $1200 with a bad engine, but a working A/C. Brand new parts would have been that anyway, and this way I knew I had all the parts. We might have missed some if I had to order them all.

Like you all work done in the driveway -- I swapped the parts, including the console, and more crucially, a wire harness that included connectors for the A/C that was not in the original harness. Obviously both dashes had to come out on both cars. Didn't look quite as bad as your pix, though, because there weren't as many wires and stuff. I did put in a few new parts, like the vacuum vent controllers, due to older rubber falling apart, and foam, like you.

Was your original evap made of two metals? I thought THAT was the main cause of the everyone's leaks.
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
The evaporator I used : 8FV 351 210-711 Original Behr


The price was 169 Euro from Germany. I can highly recommend the part-source I have there.
Thank you!!! What is the part-source you use?
And also here is few more pics. of my project :D
 

Attachments

Ahh, the /8 220D. I had one in the early 80's, a true rocket :)

There are two things regarding the heater box :

  • be carefull to put back on every, and I mean every, of these little clamps. I was constantly wiggling my airbox back in the car and did hear a small noice. One of the clamps was not completely seated and worked loose. You almost can be certain that you have some noise in the cabin if not all clamps are back in place. They tend to come of at ballistic speeds and I had a friend who had a fair amount of problems that they came loose when re-fitting the dashboard spending endless hours of retrieving the little beats. Based on this I used some very small amount of 2-component clue to make sure the most critical once stay in place. I had no problems re-fitting the dash, not sure if this is the glue or just good luck
  • There are three metal inserts on the top of the heater box where it's fixed against the firewall. Make sure that they are somehow held in place, they are a pain to be put back on

If you fit a new evaporator or heater core, make sure that you use the foam either coming from MB or you own if you order OEM

I used the following parts source

Salzmann KĂĽhler IndustriekĂĽhler AutokĂĽhler Klimatechnik Instandsetzung

They had excellent pricing and were helpful in every aspect and replying to little questions. (I hadn't the little "woosh" when opening the evaporator and was concerned about this. Contacted them and got a prompt reply that companies have recently stopped pulling a vacuum - probably another cost cutting measure.

The toughest part has been - by far - the replacement of the ^$@$& T at the back of the engine close to the firewall. My hand still hurts. Oh this part BTW was 35 Euros + tax from the dealer for the M120

We have a holiday tomorrow, I hope I have everything together then. I'm heading out to the US next week for a short business trip and probably will have forgotten on my return where the last screw belongs to.

Last night - between two rain showers and a comfortable 7C here in Paris, I got the complete wiper assy and everything else back together in the engine compartment
 
Discussion starter · #57 ·
Evaporator core question

Hi to All!!! have everything apart and ready to install new Evaporator core, but-new OEM (BEHR) is a very-very pricy:eek::confused::eek: 750+tax (dealer). also i found a few ones much cheaper but different brand:

1. Made by ACM#140 830 21 58

2. Made by CRP#140 830 21 58

Question is: Did anyone of you has have any experience with this two, or heard something about? (bad or good) need your help ASAP!!!:surrender:
 
On a critical component like this where it takes days to get access I would not take any short-cut and only use the original. As I said I paid 169 Euro. You can contact the company I listed to get a quote.

I had tried to get all bits & pieces together before I started the job to avoid that I get stalled in the middle because of missing parts.

I hope everything back together and we hopefully will do our first trip tomorrow (depending how the weather goes)

I'll post a final photo :D
 
:bowdown::bowdown:

Wow, great series of pictures. Thanks for posting those. And I too, think you have balls of legendary proportions.

That heater-a/c box doesn't look so scary sitting on your table. Kind of like when the meat is already off the cow and packaged nicely in a Styrofoam tray in the refrigerated case at the store. Anyway, these pics really let us see where some of the vacuum motors are located. Which leads me to a question...

I'm a newbie 140 owner(as of 2 days ago) (I've had several W126s, a W116 and a W123). I just bought a 1996 CL600 (that's what is on the trunk but I guess officially it's known as an S600 Coupe). Dreamed for years of having a V12 Mercedes. Only has 107,000 miles on it and I think the price was decent, but the poor thing needs some love.

One thing that needs further attention is the a/c system. I keep hearing about the vacuum motors going bad. How does this system modulate the temp? I just can't seem to get the discharge air as cold as most R134 systems I've worked on. I'm getting about 50° (F) air out of the center outlets at idle. High side is running about 225 (PSI) and low side is about 37 (PSI). So, in relation to your pics, are the vacuum doors responsible for modulating the discharge air temp? And which ones? Seems that I'm going to be looking forward to removing part of my dash.

Karl M. (Tucson AZ)
 
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