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Removal of jacking point pads!

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Mertsi1340

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W210, E200 - 1997 & 190E 2.0 - 1986
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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi,

Does anybody know how to remove the rubber pads directly below the jacking points?

I had my car undergo the rust proofing treatment and they found some damage right around one of the rubber pads below the jacking point. Now I need to remove the pad in order to do some welding and fix the damage.

Cheers
edit: The car in question is of course my W210.
 
#3 · (Edited)
think of it as a large, plastic pop rivet. push the bottom portion up into the retracted position and
the jaws spread outward, like a pop rivet...gripping the frame member. retract it into the downward
position and the jaws loosen their grip, allowing for removal
 
Discussion starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thanks for the tip.


As I mentioned earlier I have to cut away some of the sheet metal all around the rubber pad and replace it with new metal sheet by welding it and I would like to now how the body is constructed in the vicinity of the jacking point.

Are there wires inside the "rocker panel" (I don't know if this is the right term), if so how can I make sure that they will not be damaged by the welding process? Does anybody have a picture/drawing of the rocker panel cross-section at this location?

The picture attached is not from my own car but it shows where the rust damage is located.

Constructive comments and suggestions are more than welcome.
Cheers
 

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#7 ·
How about looking at the other side, you had 4 of them that should give you some idea, (I guess).
 
Discussion starter · #8 · (Edited)
Now I know how the pad is connected to the body and the structure of the body in that area.

But right now my main concern is the route of the wiring (if any) in the vicinity of the hole where the rubber pad is. I do not want them to get damaged during the welding process.

On the other hand, it would be crazy to put wires and harnesses inside a closed space where dampness can ruin them. It would also be very difficult to fix electrical problems involving wires inside a panel with no access (or at least very difficult to get to). Probably there are no wires inside the panel after all. The repair is being done on the passenger side.

So which is it? Do I have to worry about wires?

Cheers
 
#10 ·
don't weld yet! i have an endoscope but the cable diameter may not make the
turn in such small a hole. i'm not working today and will give it a try....will report
back.

another thing you can do is pop the door sills and gauge and eyeball whether
that channel beneath (including wiring bundles) is within the same channel as
that shown in the above photo which supports the jacking pad. i'm away from
the car and can only guess in my head.....but it *is* pretty close to the wiring
though likely below the wires and has its own, independent channel

in other words, proceed cautiously!
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Hera are a couple of photos from the damaged area. as you can see it is quite bad and what's left of the metal sheet around the pad is held in place in a couple of places only. I am sure if I had lifted the car using that jacking point I'd have probably been in for a nasty surprise.

How is the rubber pad removed exactly? I played around with it for a while but since I could not see properly because the distance between my bad eyes and the pad was too short I could not figure out how to remove the pad.

I would appreciate a detailed explanation that even I could understand on how to remove the pad.

Cheers
 

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#12 ·
See post#2.

Put a screw driver in the rectangular slot as seen in your photos. Lever out the centre section, and then pull it off. It's definitely not rocket science.:)

Or just pull the whole thing off...since it's not held on by much metal!!
 
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#13 ·
renault12ts said:
See post#2.

Put a screw driver in the rectangular slot as seen in your photos. Lever out the centre section, and then pull it off. It's definitely not rocket science.:)

Or just pull the whole thing off...since it's not held on by much metal!!
Click to expand...
Hello young man
 
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#14 ·
I removed those pads and put lots of grease up and around the hole to rustproof it. I guessed right that it was a potential rust area.
yep--just use a screwdriver and pry and pull out the center of the pad--then remove the pad. it's like a large version of one of those plastic clips that are used all over the car.
 
#16 ·
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Discussion starter · #17 ·
Hi,
Does anyone know how to remove the lining around the front door threshold in case the welding happens too close to the foot-mat and wirings?

Is there a DIY on how to remove the front door threshold and the sill somewhere?

Cheers
 
#18 ·
you mean the thing that says Mercedes that you step on?
Just did this. Use a plastic trim pry tool from harbor freight or a screwdriver with tape wrapped around it to get it started, then pull up. Either way, you'd be lucky not to break a couple of 3 dollar connectors. not a big deal--the dealer carries them. in my experience, the part doesn't break, just the fasteners.

BTW--is this the only part of your car with major rust? that would be surprising.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Thanks for the info.
I took my car to a rust proofing shop for the treatment. They told me that this was the only part where the rust had damaged the sheet metal. They had found other spots of rust but they told me that after the treatment they should not be problem for a long time. They said considering the age of the car the body and chassis were in very good condition.
Now I have to fix this and take the car back for them to apply rust proofing to this area also. The job cost 730 euros (about $1000) which I think is too much but hopefully I would not have any issues with rust for a long time to come yet.

I brought the car from Germany. In Finland due to severe and long winters (sometimes 6-7 months) a lot of salt is used on the roads and as a results rust is a major issue and I am trying to avoid future problems (or at least hope to).
 
#20 ·
is this a wagon (estate)? is there rust around the rear gate handle? is there rust around the base of the star (hood ornament)?
is the welding job $1000, or the rustproofing. If they truly know what they are doing, and are pulling off all the plastic, rubber, door panels, etc, Its probably worth it.
I did everything myself, and never having done it before, it took me two days (mostly trying to figure out how to pull parts off and get them back on). I pulled off all the plastic trim, the inner fenders, door panels, etc.
Problem is the stuff i used, on the exposed parts. lasts a year at best. I am hoping that the unexposed parts will last a few years--because thats the hard part. Coating the exposed parts, and even shooting it through drain holes, etc, is super easy--an hour or two, which i will do every year.
The stuff i used is called fluid film. I love it because it's non toxic--you don't have to wear a respirator or gloves, you can use it o rubber parts, etc. It also "creeps" better than anything else and there is no danger of it plugging any holes. But it doesn't last as long as 3m rust stuff and the like.
Afte the welding job is done, ou could easily shoot a can of rust stuff in through the holes before they put the rocker panel cover back on.
 
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renault12ts
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