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Zedd said:
From what I gathered from my dyno runs, torque is roughly a 1.5 ratio to HP on the OM617. My last dyno: 102.7HP, 148.2TQ

At a realistic 180hp at the wheels, you should get about 270tq at the wheels.
Zedd, I might be able to believe you could get 270 ft/lbs at the flywheel; but when you measure torque at the wheels, you have to account for the torque multiplying done by the transmission, differential, and wheel diameter. Torque at the wheels is substantially higher than torque at the flywheel; by 1000+ ft/lbs.
 
Stevenpfaff said:
Torque at the wheels is substantially higher than torque at the flywheel; by 1000+ ft/lbs.
Your numbers are unrealistic.

Torque will be lower at the wheels because of friction and drivetrain inertia.
My number of 148ft/lbs was at the wheels. After IP adjustment, 270 *is* a realistic torque value at the wheels.
A dyno measures how quickly a vehicle can accelerate a fixed mass. No matter what you have on your car, the dyno will show what you have at the wheels.

My personal goal is 150hp and/or 250ft/lbs at the wheels. Getting the engine back to stock power levels after 24 years of wear and tear was the hard part. Going above and beyond not as hard (Just costs $$$).
 
Zedd said:
Your numbers are unrealistic.

Torque will be lower at the wheels because of friction and drivetrain inertia.
My number of 148ft/lbs was at the wheels. After IP adjustment, 270 *is* a realistic torque value at the wheels.
A dyno measures how quickly a vehicle can accelerate a fixed mass. No matter what you have on your car, the dyno will show what you have at the wheels.

My personal goal is 150hp and/or 250ft/lbs at the wheels. Getting the engine back to stock power levels after 24 years of wear and tear was the hard part. Going above and beyond not as hard (Just costs $$$).
It's simple physics, torque is multiplied by gear ratios. Here's some information for you to read. You can think I'm wrong all you want, but I've done my research.

http://www.4x4abc.com/4WD101/crawl.html
http://www.allpar.com/eek/hp-vs-torque.html

EDIT: I can't find the actual equation to figure out exactly what the torque output is at the wheels. I understand there is usually a 20%-30% loss in the drivetrain, obviously it takes power to move anything. The high numbers I'm talking about are generated in lower gears; obviously the higher the gear, the less the torque will be multiplied.
 
Stock guys may not want to read this!!!

I know that I am new to MB, but here is my 2c worth. Do a CCV Mod. That is to remove the oil and heat from the turbo. I have not looked around, but I am sure there is a way to use an intercooler. Better air flow, remove the right fog light and fab a cold air intake with a K&N or you can find any size filter on the NAPA web site to use (cheaper). Exhaust mod, yes but I have not idea how! Keep it tuned in the fuel and valves. How about an electric water pump? I think heating to fuel would do some good as well, and thin with gas.
Turbo...http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Garr...QitemZ230017029156QQihZ013QQcategoryZ33742QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem.
 
all this talk about torque and HP has strayed away from the point. you have a turbo diesel and you want more power? this is all so simple.. you need to add more air, and more fuel and keep the thermal efficiency to an ideal level.

to start, increase the cfm of exhaust gasses and induction air. drawing in cold ambient air from the front of the car in the shortest distance to the turbo inlet with the least restriction is first. a fabbricated intake pipe with a foam or metal filter will work fine. route it to recieve air from behind the grille, behind the headlight, or into the fenderwell. avoid K&N or an other oiled filter, because with long term use, the lubricant on the filter will be drawn into the turbo and intake manifold which will isolate power robbing heat.

next, look to the exhaust system. if the noise level is a big issue for you, skip it, however it is a key roll in any further power gains. unlike a naturally aspirated engine, an turbo produces a constant stream of exhaust gasses, therfore optimizing velocity is no problem. a 3" diameter system with minimal bends, a 2' long cowled resonator, and a magnaflow straight through muffler will give a wonder deep tone and the best possible cfm rate, aside from a straight pipe.

now think in terms of thermal efficiency. by now you've increased the flow which is simply freeing power the engine already made. from this point, an oil cooler, and front mount intercooler will net you bigger gains while increasing fuel efficiency and longevity. it shouldn't cost anymore than $400 to do a front mount intercooler. the most efficient way is to buy mandrel bends of aluminized steel, cut and connect them with silicone hose, then have the sections welded then thermal wrapped or coated (VHT makes great thermal paint in cans for $10). the best intercooler cores are no more than 4" thick with the endtanks on the top and bottom (lengthwise). also, a great way to reduce underhood temps and gain power is to ceramic coat the exhaust manifold. hotter gasses travel faster. and the faster you expel them, the more power you can make.

from here, it's safe to increase boost pressure and fuel output. a simple manual boost controller can be purchased for around $45. a vaccum line to the cabin and a chaep boost guage can help you tune the pressure to a safe level. (reason being, more boost pressure in generated under load during acceleration, so the car must be driven while you or a passanger records the highest pressure reading). also, an in line rising rate adjustable FPR can be had for appx $120. tuning the fuel pressure to match the boost is best done with a good quality wide band AFR meter. but with time and skill, you can tune by ear.


also, as previously mentioned, propane injection along with nitrous are a good bang for the buck. but it's not one or the other. propane is a fuel. nitrous is simply an oxidizer. with higher boost, propane will give good gains. with just nitrous, you can possibly run the engine lean resulting in big damages. anything beyond this probably cannot be fasilitated by your budget. i.e.- larger turbo, internal modifications..

any detailed questions, or sources for products?
 
Any suggestions on the ceramic based coating for the exhaust manifold?
Have used a hi temp water base by Super-Therm.
Not sure how it would hold up under constant vibration.
 
doucy2 said:
well we all know that it does 120hp stock
so what all can i do to the car to get some more hp out of it, i just need to have something quicker than now before i start my w124 project.are there any somwhat simple and cost effective mods i can do to see a slight perfomance gain?
doucy2...Perhaps getting something "quicker" requires more than "a slight performance gain. Read what these guys are doing with their 300d's. The one guy would be statisfied with only 250 hp...that's all he needs.
http://mersuforum.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16212&sid=e2dec16a93c7b9edb8335ef409425b3f
Dave
 
RoyH said:
Any suggestions on the ceramic based coating for the exhaust manifold?
Have used a hi temp water base by Super-Therm.
Not sure how it would hold up under constant vibration.
assuming you live in the states, there is a company called jethot. look them up and find the nearest shop. there prices are very resonable and they do supurb work. they will sandblast and coat a turbo manifold inside and out for a couple hundred at the most. aside from that, there are products you can buy on the internet, but you need a spray gun, and most of the quality coatings require you to heat treat the part which can be a bit difficult and all in all it's just a hassle. the spray gun will pretty much be ruined aswell. a $20 gun from checker auto or autozone is the way to go for a DIY. and vibration is no issue. alot of people seem to have vibration problems with thier turbocharger after unbolting it for the first time. even at 120,000 rpms a turbocharger should have very minimal vibrations. especially seeing how a factory turbo is meticulously machined balanced. but if you do have problems with bolts coming loose, loctite can solve them. the only remedy is the green aircraft quality loctite. do a google search and you'll find it. anyhow, you should expect a 5-7% hp increse from a ceramic coated manifold, assuming you have a good flowing exhaust system. and not to mention the extended longevity of other components. my last turbo project involved a nissan VG30ET which produced enough heat to constantly destroy vaccum lines, sensors, wires, hoses.. after some insulation of the manifolds and turbine housing, everything was just fine :thumbsup:
 
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