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In Your reply, says 2.2 kOhm resistor in flap motor so what is the proper resistance ?
I dont like to sound like a broken record:

- both my original one and the one I purchased recently measure 2.2kOhm for full resistance
- I don't know the design target and there is no documentation I am aware off

The in-car temperature sensor is an NTC with a R25 = 1.7kOhm and a B25/75 value of ~3900. Unfortunately, these devices become rare. There is one available at Mouser.com Mouser Part #: 71-01C1701JP that should work.

Ingo
 
No need to shout. These NTC become more and more obsolete and that's why they are hard to find. DigiKey has a minimum order quantity of 1000 pieces for a matching device and luckily Mouser let's you order a single piece (albeit with lead time).

If you are time-pressed and bound to replace the sensor order the original Mercedes Benz dual-switch and you're all set. However, first and foremost why are you intending to replace the sensor? Have you measured its resistance and checked whether it works as described (see my document). These things rarely fail. If yours works there is no reason to replace it. A different one won't change a thing.

Ingo
 
No need to shout. These NTC become more and more obsolete and that's why they are hard to find. DigiKey has a minimum order quantity of 1000 pieces for a matching device and luckily Mouser let's you order a single piece (albeit with lead time).

If you are time-pressed and bound to replace the sensor order the original Mercedes Benz dual-switch and you're all set. However, first and foremost why are you intending to replace the sensor? Have you measured its resistance and checked whether it works as described (see my document). These things rarely fail. If yours works there is no reason to replace it. A different one won't change a thing.

Ingo


I need to begin somehow, i need to undertake some activity doing a repair on that ML
 
Help! Hints? Stuck trying to remove the dash

I'm trying to replace the blend door actuator motor on my MY2000 ML320.

I followed the diy directions posted by 43sqd and have seen the posts by atmsmshr.

When I try to remove the dash, the interior side edge lifts as expected. However I feel resistance somewhere near the defroster vents and am not able to lift the windshield edge (center) much.

I don't know what's under the dash near the defroster and am hesitant to use a lot of force to lift the dash up.

Does anyone have any ideas? The dashboard removal video by Drx163 makes it look so easy? As my ML is 17 years old I'm thinking some plastic parts have fused over time.

Thanks in advance.

tony
 
After looking at it further I noticed there were two more screws in the center of the dashboard, a third of the way in the dashboard holding the center vent piping.

Took the two screws out and the dash came off easily.

tony
 
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