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Trying to properly adjust my throttle linkage.

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TimmahW123

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1979 Mercedes-Benz 240D
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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
But... after installing "fuel line bushings" on the throttle fork and jamming it PROPERLY back into the spot it was supposed to go, through the 2 little slots on the STOP Lever linkage, I only have half throttle. The little "hammer head" does not make contact with the IP stop screw at full throttle via the pedal, but it does make contact when I pull back the STOP Lever.

I'm suspecting that I need to adjust the length of the rod that connects this assembly to the IP.

Am I on the right track here?

I'm going to take some pictures... I need some help here!
 

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#2 · (Edited)
ekk whats with the airfilter....talk about serious down grade...

Zip ties aren't meant for throttle linkage....

Looks like, by the angle....your throttle pivot mount is shot on the firewall....plastic ball disintegrates behind the metal...

Looking at the photos more, I see you have a manual transmission....I think?....I would remove all the ALDA crap....some of that linkage may be binding as well....
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the laugh... :p I will get that pivot mount on order, It was suspect, but I wasn't 100%. Yes, I'm aware zip ties are not for throttle linkage but the idle speed adjust cable is broken and I've got a new one on order.

I want this car proper but when you can't adjust idle speed to compensate for compressor load and you keep stalling due to the low idle with the A/C on, you kludge it until you can get it fixed right :p

About the filter, I broke one of my intake manifold "screw holes" while attempting to replace the air cleaner bushings, so I can't use the stock air cleaner right now. I figure it's better to at least have SOMETHING there for now. I don't like it either, it's hideous, it's loud, but it works...

Waiting until I have a good chance to replace the intake manifold with my spare.
 
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Discussion starter · #8 ·
I have gotten the throttle linkage to travel to full stop again, by pulling the "fork" back from the stop linkage and putting one of the forks on top of the stop linkage. The other fork is in it's proper hole... That way when I press the pedal the hammer contacts the screw... at least I do have full power again, for now. That was the way the forks were setup when I bought this car..
 
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#9 ·
Always try to get a laugh....but instead some how my typed words come off as harsh, bitter and mean...still attempting to figure out how a typed paragraph can show emotion...:p

The car shouldn't be stalling with the ac on....I would unscrew or attempt to pull the fork rod out of the pivot mount to confirm it is bad...its hard to tell by the photo but the angle makes it appear bad...

Also work on removing the ALDA/EGR crap....A quarter can be used to block the port...this will allow you to remove all that vacuum crap and linkage on the top of the valve cover and the back of the injection pump..if your car is a stick shift....this will allow better acceleration...

For the idle adjust cable...you really shouldn't need it once the car is up to snuff but a cheap trick to fix it...is go to the autoparts store and buy a throttle control cable...same thing pretty much but cost is 8$...

Ah I see! I just wanted to confirm you weren't fooled by all those people who recommend that type of filter for better airflow...

Somebody may have messed with the linkage....how you adjust is to pop off the rod coming from the ip to the stop lever...push the stop lever to the valve cover and there should be a 6mm gap between the stop lever boll and the top of that rod....
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Well, I will say the stalling is my own fault partially since at low idle I can't seem to feather the accelerator and clutch very well to keep it running when I take off from a stop. It doesn't stall of it's own accord, it DOES get rough and vibrate-y when the A/C is on, and the idle isn't bumped up to compensate for the extra load. I suspect motor mounts are in my future.

I also don't doubt that someone before me fudge-mcducked up the linkage to compensate for out of adjustment valves. I really need to get my hands on a copy of the throttle linkage diagram showing correct lengths, etc, so I can verify it for myself.

And yes, the fork rod - it does have a little more play than it should, and is insanely easy to push back far enough that it can be manipulated to the point where you can put one of the forks over the stop lever. I also shot compressed air behind the gap and chunks of curved white plastic came out, confirming that little ball disintegrated long ago.

Will removing the ALDA cause issues when climbing grades? I understand it is there to compensate for changes in altitude.

Is there a good guide for removing the EGR floating around somewhere?
 
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#11 ·
TimmahW123 said:
Well, I will say the stalling is my own fault partially since at low idle I can't seem to feather the accelerator and clutch very well to keep it running when I take off from a stop. It doesn't stall of it's own accord, it DOES get rough and vibrate-y when the A/C is on, and the idle isn't bumped up to compensate for the extra load. I suspect motor mounts are in my future.

I also don't doubt that someone before me fudge-mcducked up the linkage to compensate for out of adjustment valves. I really need to get my hands on a copy of the throttle linkage diagram showing correct lengths, etc, so I can verify it for myself.

And yes, the fork rod - it does have a little more play than it should, and is insanely easy to push back far enough that it can be manipulated to the point where you can put one of the forks over the stop lever. I also shot compressed air behind the gap and chunks of curved white plastic came out, confirming that little ball disintegrated long ago.

Will removing the ALDA cause issues when climbing grades? I understand it is there to compensate for changes in altitude.

Is there a good guide for removing the EGR floating around somewhere?
Click to expand...
Ah yes! I know that feeling....my euro "wasn't" suppose to be a stick shift and well that was really fun learning how to drive a manual in!

Here is the PDF and a link to the CD's have fun!

http://mb.bolinko.org/wis/w123/CD02/Engine/615/30-300.pdf

W123-dokumentacja cz. 2

Ah yes that confirms it is gone....you will be amazed at the throttle control once it is replaced!

This car doesn't have an ALDA...sorry for my moment of confusion lol...All that crap is the EGR and it has an ADA....

Removing both won't have any thing but positive effects "if" you have to have a smog...it will but if you good to go....remove both...here is an EGR removal link...

This one is for a 300D but the stuff is the same...

EGR Delete/Remove - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

Showing how I removed the ADA..

Removing an ADA from a NA 300D - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum
 
#12 ·
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Well, the state I'm planning on moving to (Georgia) doesn't have diesel emissions testing so I ought to be OK there with removing the ADA then.

If it will improve my idle I am game!

Yeah it is odd re-learning a manual after 2.5 years of driving automatics.

Here's the funny thing though, I can double clutch a big rig with the best of em, and float gears like a champ, but when it comes to an auto-synchro manual it's a whole different world. Every now and again I'll pull some freight on the weekend, last run I did a few weeks ago I got a comment from the warehouse owner "I heard you pulling in, and I've never heard anyone shift that fast" Well at least I got that going for me at 23 :p
 
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Discussion starter · #14 ·
I bought those Mercedessource wrenches a couple years ago, and I still have 2 valve cover gaskets left from the kit. While I did adjust the valves to get it running right at first, I will re-check them after a few thousand miles.

So far I've run about 700 miles. So... I still haven't changed the oil yet... waiting on the oil pan bolts to come in from AutohausAZ so I can install my new oil pan, gasket... going to have to make a hole in that oil pan to get the oil out :/

In case you're wondering I did use one of those oil test kits and the 2 year old oil still has good lubricity... but I still want that old oil OUT OUT OUT
 
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#15 ·
TimmahW123 said:
Here's the funny thing though, I can double clutch a big rig with the best of em, and float gears like a champ, but when it comes to an auto-synchro manual it's a whole different world. Every now and again I'll pull some freight on the weekend, last run I did a few weeks ago I got a comment from the warehouse owner "I heard you pulling in, and I've never heard anyone shift that fast" Well at least I got that going for me at 23 :p
Click to expand...
Just wait until you get the shifter cleaned and rebuilt...and the hydrolic clutch cleaned and rebuilt...Also new motor mounts...buy phoenix mounts...same as the dealers also buy the ones for the 300D...stiffer cheaper and dealer parts..

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 123-241-30-13-M66

I love to race to euro...shifting is super fun once you learn how to play the gears on these cars....also it is great for the engine to drive these beast hard....if you plan to keep the car...I would work on weight reduction....just the insulation they used on the floor board weighs in at over 50lbs!
 
#16 ·
TimmahW123 said:
I bought those Mercedessource wrenches a couple years ago, and I still have 2 valve cover gaskets left from the kit. While I did adjust the valves to get it running right at first, I will re-check them after a few thousand miles.

So far I've run about 700 miles. So... I still haven't changed the oil yet... waiting on the oil pan bolts to come in from AutohausAZ so I can install my new oil pan, gasket... going to have to make a hole in that oil pan to get the oil out :/

In case you're wondering I did use one of those oil test kits and the 2 year old oil still has good lubricity... but I still want that old oil OUT OUT OUT
Click to expand...
Good on that then! After you get the oil out, I would check them again...specially since you have an EGR...pretty much an EGR system diverts the exhaust back to the intake manifold and thus you get no fresh air to burn.....equals bad carbon build up.....

Ah I broke a few off and replaced them with hardware store bolts...bad of me lol.......Another thing to under stand is that you may have lubricity still BUT with diesels....the oil acts as a detergent, it keeps the carbon suspended in the oil....if the oil isn't changed regularly the oil has no cleaning abilities left....I was changed and doing valve adjustments every 500 miles for two years on the 78 as some idiot opted to burn frying oil in it...

Another tidbit of info no one ever knows....In the oil filter housing there is a bypass valve....when the pressure gets to high in the housing because of a dirty filter....the oil filter housing bypass the filter all together....thus putting back dirty oil into the car....really tears the hell out of the engine...
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
I did actually replace the oil filter, and I had to add 2 quarts of 15W-40 to it, so hopefully it dilutes some of the bad stuff.

The oil pan is not salvageable as I, in a fit of unholy rage, took a blowtorch to the oil pan drain bolt trying to get it off and accidentally welded the bolt to the pan. The majority of the oil pan bolts are crappy hardware store bolts, not to mention the oil pan wasn't tightened in the correct star pattern so it is warped in a funny way causing it to drip a few drops every now and again. NOT GOOD when you are regularly pulling into the driveways of million dollar homes (I do computer repair / consulting as a side gig)

Shifter bushings and linkage corrections on the transmission will be a job for another day, I have noticed some slop in the shifter, and you can put it into reverse without pulling up on the shifter. Definitely needs it - I have accidentally put the car into 3rd instead of 1st several times.

Any idea where I can find a nice shift knob / boot? Thinking of going with an accordion style shift boot, if I can find the right one. Did Mercedes ever use an accordion boot?
 
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#18 ·
TimmahW123 said:
I did actually replace the oil filter, and I had to add 2 quarts of 15W-40 to it, so hopefully it dilutes some of the bad stuff.

The oil pan is not salvageable as I, in a fit of unholy rage, took a blowtorch to the oil pan drain bolt trying to get it off and accidentally welded the bolt to the pan. The majority of the oil pan bolts are crappy hardware store bolts, not to mention the oil pan wasn't tightened in the correct star pattern so it is warped in a funny way causing it to drip a few drops every now and again. NOT GOOD when you are regularly pulling into the driveways of million dollar homes (I do computer repair / consulting as a side gig)

Shifter bushings and linkage corrections on the transmission will be a job for another day, I have noticed some slop in the shifter, and you can put it into reverse without pulling up on the shifter. Definitely needs it - I have accidentally put the car into 3rd instead of 1st several times.

Any idea where I can find a nice shift knob / boot? Thinking of going with an accordion style shift boot, if I can find the right one. Did Mercedes ever use an accordion boot?
Click to expand...
Glad you have some smarts aka common sense on you! If more folks had that, they would succeed so much more with these cars!

Wow lucky you didn't ignite the oil...That would have been bad....Did one of those drive in oil places add their special drain bolt? I have heard that happening a few times...I've had a hole in my euro's drain pan for years! One millennium I plan to replace it...but oddly it doesn't drip a bit....think the whole got pinched with it was made....the 78 I had to drop the pad as I had to replace the oil pump...

Ha I had an axle go out as I was pulling in a multi million dollar home....Its not fun pulling in going CLUNK CLUCK CLUNCK...I use to do landscaping and resale that involved a lot of expensive homes and not so friend rich people...

Well sorry to be the bringer of bad news....there isn't a lock out for reverse....regardless of what others say...my shifter rebuild starts on this thread....the only reason it felt like there is suppose to be a lock out is because of all the damn grease/dirt build up and busted bushings......And well it won't help the shift pattern.....the gears are really close together....I always put it in 3rd before 1st....because I rarely get it into 1st the first time..

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w123-e-ce-d-cd-td/1855033-i-need-someone-get-my-car-32.html

I don't know if they did or not....you can find nice wooden shift knobs on ebay...maybe peach as well but I ordered the factory ones...here's a site that shows all the part numbers n stuff...

1983 Mercedes 240 D FLOOR SHIFT USED WITH MANUAL FOUR-SPEED TRANSMISSION
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
My drain bolt is actually OE, but has been rounded off magnificently. I have been thinking of using one of those spigot-type oil drain valves to make for quicker oil changes. I use one of those on my Freightliner FLD120, and its been on there for 2 years with no issues or leaks.

Thanks for the links & the help - I am going to turn in for the night so I can drag myself out of bed in the morning and get back to work. Mondays and all that jazz... Goodnight
 
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#20 ·
TimmahW123 said:
My drain bolt is actually OE, but has been rounded off magnificently. I have been thinking of using one of those spigot-type oil drain valves to make for quicker oil changes. I use one of those on my Freightliner FLD120, and its been on there for 2 years with no issues or leaks.

Thanks for the links & the help - I am going to turn in for the night so I can drag myself out of bed in the morning and get back to work. Mondays and all that jazz... Goodnight
Click to expand...
Yeah I imagine I know how....Mine have been changed through the years...and I find myself never taking the correct wrench under the car with me...So I can see how that happens :p

No problem! Same to you...
 
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